Rachel found these photos of Uzbekistan that she wanted to share. The photos remind her of Tajikistan.
http://www.artandcraft.uz/index.php?imginfo=1248&lng=1
She finally sent me her mailing address in Tajikistan. I'll post it here in case you would like to mail her something.
MEDA Tajikistan
Trudovaya Street 1
735712 Khujand
Sugd Oblast
Tajikistan
Wednesday, September 27, 2006
Sunday, September 24, 2006
A Humbling Week…
This week went by fairly quickly with plenty of stories and experiences to share. It is a bit long so be forewarned.
(I have uploaded more photos under Google Photo so check them out!)
Monday:
This morning, I turned on the tap and nothing. It was my first experience of the seemingly normal occurrences of water shortage in Tajikistan. I wasn’t prepared for this!
Note to self: next time water returns, fill up 5L water bottle for emergency use.
I figured and hoped that water would return once I came home from work but unfortunately it wasn’t. I reheated my leftover soup and at 7pm, the water came back. I quickly washed my dishes and went to take a quick shower. Right in the middle of my shower (after I was just almost finished rinsing my hair), the power went out! I couldn’t believe my luck and decided to quickly finish up but end before I could finish that thought, the water went out again!! So here I was in the shower, in pitch blackness, naked and not really knowing if I completely rinsed my hair or not. I just had to laugh…
Note to self: need to keep a flashlight in the bathroom!
By the time I got to my flashlight, the lights turned back on and I was in mist of light again. The water however was still not working. Wintertime in Tajikistan is known for its water and power shortages but it’s only Sept…I guess it will be many interesting couple of months. I think I want to keep tabs on how many shortages I experience here in Tajikistan…
So which would you choose? No water or no power?!? Definitely not having both while you are in the middle of a shower isn’t desired. In my opinion, water is very important and we don’t realize how disrupted our lives are without it. There’s a saying in Chinese that say “water is life/fortune” and I have to agree that it is one resource that humans cannot live without. The next time you turn your tap on; make sure you make efficient use for that water.
Thursday:
I went out for dinner with Nigel (visiting from MEDA Waterloo), Beate (my mgr) and Gary (her husband). It was 9ish and dark by the time we finished. Beate and Gary walked with me to the main road and we went opposite ways back home. I was feeling pretty safe in the city by now so didn’t think anything of walking by myself. However, I was unlucky that night and was approached by this man from a car who tried to grab my arm and take me into his car. The only words that I understood was “pal zhal sta” which was please which made no sense to me whatsoever. Anyways, I said “no” and continued on my way to only find that the car followed me to the next block and the man again came out and approached me again. I quickly reached for my mobile and pretended to call someone to scare him away but he continued to speak in Russian and have this terrifying smirk on his face.
It was then when my body went into a “fight or flight” mode and a moment in time where I thought “how am I ever going to get out of this?” In the end, I ran the opposite direction and called Beate, who came in a taxi to pick me up and take me home. I did not look to see where those two men were but I am glad that everything turned out ok in the end.
I realized that even though the city is safe, it isn’t common for a young single female to be walking alone at night as all the local women are accompanied. I will also NEVER walk alone at night again after this terrifying learning experience. I have never experienced this before and man did I feel vulnerable in such circumstance…It is a lesson for all females no matter where you are to always err on the side of caution no matter where you are and to do as the locals are doing. Thank God for keeping me safe.
Saturday:
I was invited to visit Istaravshan again. This time we visited a juicing/canning processing factory which MEDA was working closely with. It was one of the more innovative and better operated processing plants in the region. I got my first glimpse of the transformation of fruits into juice in 1 litre juice boxes. We then proceeded to the home of a farmer who received the first SME loan from MEDA. We were treated with utmost hospitality with a wonderful multi-course meal that lasted for 3 hours. There was plenty of non (flatbread), many different & tasty grapes, nuts, some type of yogurt/cream with dill (great with the non!), shorpa (soup made from boiled mutton on the bone with potatoes, carrots with parsley) and lots of s
hashlyk (marinated mutton kebabs). We ate outside in a traditional bedlike platform made of clay bricks called chorpay which are so comfortable and relaxing, not to mention functional as it doubles as a table and a place to sit. I would definitely get one of these in my backyard when I ever get my own house!
I can’t help but feel very humbled today. As a city girl growing up in Canada, I am totally ignorant of how and where our food comes from. I have an immense appreciation for the hard work, the time and the technical aspects that goes into producing the food that we eat everyday. When we buy our groceries at the supermarket, we do not see all the hard work and channels that the food has traveled to reach that final designation. There is much to learn in the area of agriculture and perhaps I’ll be inspired and converted to have my own garden one day.
Central Asia is also known for their cotton fields which exist due to the Soviet times when Russia dictated that this area be growers of cotton. Again I am ignorant and unaware that my 100% cotton shirts have come from these cotton fields, which consume a lot of water, depleting from the water sources in Tajikistan. It also depletes the nutrients in the soil and women/children works long hours in the heat to hand pick the cotton (and get barely anything for it). The cotton culture in Central Asia and all over the world is destructive to the global environment (just take the drying of the Aral Sea for example). It certainly doesn’t make me proud to be wearing cotton.
Sunday:
Psalms 139:23-24
Search me, O God, and know my heart! Try me and know my thoughts!
And see if there be any grievous way in me, and lead me in the way everlasting!
I sat in quiet reflection of the last 3 weeks in Tajikistan. It is tough being away from a church community here, in terms of support in my spiritual walk. I pray for strength and for my spirit to be God-filled.
I went to Kairakum’s busy Sunday market and to the lake today. It is actually a reservoir but looks like a sea which the Tajiks call the "Tajik sea". A popular local attraction during the summer season but it was utterly deserted today except for a bunch of cows. The lake (reservoir) was beautiful but there was so much trash on the beach and the seaside was so rundown that it was a pretty sad place to be.
Misc Thoughts:
Another sad observation in Tajikistan thus far is that the dogs I’ve seen here are made into aggressive and ferocious guard dogs. They all gnarl and bark at strangers and this one time, I witnessed a family throw rocks at their dog to stop them from barking. I could never imagine doing that to Belle…
Although I have made previous mention that Khujand has not been influenced by the western world, I must say that the areas that have been infiltrated by the west are in the music and on TV. Shakeira, Celine Dion, Byran Adams, Mariah Carey and even R&B rap have been played in the car and at the office. Little boys can name actors such as Jean-Claude Van Damme, Jackie Chan or Jet Li.
Ciao!
ps. My husband is impressive with setting up this countdown ticker! I look tech savvy only because of him =)
(I have uploaded more photos under Google Photo so check them out!)
Monday:
This morning, I turned on the tap and nothing. It was my first experience of the seemingly normal occurrences of water shortage in Tajikistan. I wasn’t prepared for this!
Note to self: next time water returns, fill up 5L water bottle for emergency use.
I figured and hoped that water would return once I came home from work but unfortunately it wasn’t. I reheated my leftover soup and at 7pm, the water came back. I quickly washed my dishes and went to take a quick shower. Right in the middle of my shower (after I was just almost finished rinsing my hair), the power went out! I couldn’t believe my luck and decided to quickly finish up but end before I could finish that thought, the water went out again!! So here I was in the shower, in pitch blackness, naked and not really knowing if I completely rinsed my hair or not. I just had to laugh…
Note to self: need to keep a flashlight in the bathroom!
By the time I got to my flashlight, the lights turned back on and I was in mist of light again. The water however was still not working. Wintertime in Tajikistan is known for its water and power shortages but it’s only Sept…I guess it will be many interesting couple of months. I think I want to keep tabs on how many shortages I experience here in Tajikistan…
So which would you choose? No water or no power?!? Definitely not having both while you are in the middle of a shower isn’t desired. In my opinion, water is very important and we don’t realize how disrupted our lives are without it. There’s a saying in Chinese that say “water is life/fortune” and I have to agree that it is one resource that humans cannot live without. The next time you turn your tap on; make sure you make efficient use for that water.
Thursday:
I went out for dinner with Nigel (visiting from MEDA Waterloo), Beate (my mgr) and Gary (her husband). It was 9ish and dark by the time we finished. Beate and Gary walked with me to the main road and we went opposite ways back home. I was feeling pretty safe in the city by now so didn’t think anything of walking by myself. However, I was unlucky that night and was approached by this man from a car who tried to grab my arm and take me into his car. The only words that I understood was “pal zhal sta” which was please which made no sense to me whatsoever. Anyways, I said “no” and continued on my way to only find that the car followed me to the next block and the man again came out and approached me again. I quickly reached for my mobile and pretended to call someone to scare him away but he continued to speak in Russian and have this terrifying smirk on his face.
It was then when my body went into a “fight or flight” mode and a moment in time where I thought “how am I ever going to get out of this?” In the end, I ran the opposite direction and called Beate, who came in a taxi to pick me up and take me home. I did not look to see where those two men were but I am glad that everything turned out ok in the end.
I realized that even though the city is safe, it isn’t common for a young single female to be walking alone at night as all the local women are accompanied. I will also NEVER walk alone at night again after this terrifying learning experience. I have never experienced this before and man did I feel vulnerable in such circumstance…It is a lesson for all females no matter where you are to always err on the side of caution no matter where you are and to do as the locals are doing. Thank God for keeping me safe.
Saturday:
I was invited to visit Istaravshan again. This time we visited a juicing/canning processing factory which MEDA was working closely with. It was one of the more innovative and better operated processing plants in the region. I got my first glimpse of the transformation of fruits into juice in 1 litre juice boxes. We then proceeded to the home of a farmer who received the first SME loan from MEDA. We were treated with utmost hospitality with a wonderful multi-course meal that lasted for 3 hours. There was plenty of non (flatbread), many different & tasty grapes, nuts, some type of yogurt/cream with dill (great with the non!), shorpa (soup made from boiled mutton on the bone with potatoes, carrots with parsley) and lots of s
hashlyk (marinated mutton kebabs). We ate outside in a traditional bedlike platform made of clay bricks called chorpay which are so comfortable and relaxing, not to mention functional as it doubles as a table and a place to sit. I would definitely get one of these in my backyard when I ever get my own house!I can’t help but feel very humbled today. As a city girl growing up in Canada, I am totally ignorant of how and where our food comes from. I have an immense appreciation for the hard work, the time and the technical aspects that goes into producing the food that we eat everyday. When we buy our groceries at the supermarket, we do not see all the hard work and channels that the food has traveled to reach that final designation. There is much to learn in the area of agriculture and perhaps I’ll be inspired and converted to have my own garden one day.
Central Asia is also known for their cotton fields which exist due to the Soviet times when Russia dictated that this area be growers of cotton. Again I am ignorant and unaware that my 100% cotton shirts have come from these cotton fields, which consume a lot of water, depleting from the water sources in Tajikistan. It also depletes the nutrients in the soil and women/children works long hours in the heat to hand pick the cotton (and get barely anything for it). The cotton culture in Central Asia and all over the world is destructive to the global environment (just take the drying of the Aral Sea for example). It certainly doesn’t make me proud to be wearing cotton.
Sunday:
Psalms 139:23-24
Search me, O God, and know my heart! Try me and know my thoughts!
And see if there be any grievous way in me, and lead me in the way everlasting!
I sat in quiet reflection of the last 3 weeks in Tajikistan. It is tough being away from a church community here, in terms of support in my spiritual walk. I pray for strength and for my spirit to be God-filled.
I went to Kairakum’s busy Sunday market and to the lake today. It is actually a reservoir but looks like a sea which the Tajiks call the "Tajik sea". A popular local attraction during the summer season but it was utterly deserted today except for a bunch of cows. The lake (reservoir) was beautiful but there was so much trash on the beach and the seaside was so rundown that it was a pretty sad place to be.
Misc Thoughts:
Another sad observation in Tajikistan thus far is that the dogs I’ve seen here are made into aggressive and ferocious guard dogs. They all gnarl and bark at strangers and this one time, I witnessed a family throw rocks at their dog to stop them from barking. I could never imagine doing that to Belle…
Although I have made previous mention that Khujand has not been influenced by the western world, I must say that the areas that have been infiltrated by the west are in the music and on TV. Shakeira, Celine Dion, Byran Adams, Mariah Carey and even R&B rap have been played in the car and at the office. Little boys can name actors such as Jean-Claude Van Damme, Jackie Chan or Jet Li.
Ciao!
ps. My husband is impressive with setting up this countdown ticker! I look tech savvy only because of him =)
Saturday, September 23, 2006
167 days
That's how many days I have to wait until I get to see my wife again. Her last day of work is scheduled for March 9th. We're gonna meet up in London and take a 3 week vacation to see Europe! Any suggestions on places we should visit? We were thinking of maybe 2-3 countries during the 3 weeks. We were thinking anywhere from Portugal to Turkey and between.
I can't imagine what it would be like if we didn't have the Internet and am amazed at how far it's advanced. I remember back in the day when I was using a 2400baud modem to connect to MindLink (anybody remember this ISP??) to get on the Internet. Now we have our high speed connections and can talk over the Internet just as good as a regular phone! Even though she's far away, we still get to chat on MSN or talk on Skype when the connection is good almost everyday. The good thing right now is that we are exactly 12hrs apart. So we can usually catch each other online when she gets to work and I get home from work. Well, like I said 167 days to go. Was I bored enough to count that down myself? Of course not. Thanks to Google, I found a spiffy timer that did the work for me. I've added it to the blog so everybody can countdown with us :D Is that cheezy or what?!? haha.
I can't imagine what it would be like if we didn't have the Internet and am amazed at how far it's advanced. I remember back in the day when I was using a 2400baud modem to connect to MindLink (anybody remember this ISP??) to get on the Internet. Now we have our high speed connections and can talk over the Internet just as good as a regular phone! Even though she's far away, we still get to chat on MSN or talk on Skype when the connection is good almost everyday. The good thing right now is that we are exactly 12hrs apart. So we can usually catch each other online when she gets to work and I get home from work. Well, like I said 167 days to go. Was I bored enough to count that down myself? Of course not. Thanks to Google, I found a spiffy timer that did the work for me. I've added it to the blog so everybody can countdown with us :D Is that cheezy or what?!? haha.
Saturday, September 16, 2006
In an internet cafe...
To view my other photos, please go to the "Google Photo" link below... Wow this week has gone by pretty quick and I’ve been here for 2 weeks already! I finally reunited with my backpack and besides one broken buckle, everything was there. You can also say that I have finally bought the important home necessities and I am truly settled in my new place for the next 6 months. I am living on my own in this apt unit that is divided into two sections: one is the living room/bedroom (sleeping on a sofa bed) and the other is where the bathroom (fairly new), dining and kitchen are located. It’s perfect for me…but wait, there’s a few caveats I failed to mention…(the extra toppings to my whole cultural experience hehe)
1. the faucet in the bathroom is defunct: it doesn’t switch from the tub to the sink because the sink was built a few cms too high so it hits the side!
2. my oven and gas stove doesn’t work but at least I have two electric hotplates to use for cooking phew!
3. the kitchen isn’t really a kitchen. There are no cabinets or counter space for me to cook and there’s only one plug outlet! Thus a little creativity and adjustment is greatly needed! I prepare my meals on the ironing board =) photos forthcoming…
oh and I forgot to mention that there was a blackout my first night in the apt? It was only for 5 minutes which I’ve been told it’s nothing to fret at all.
I have been to Khujand’s main market, Panchshanbe Bazaar a few times this week. Luckily, my first experience was with Dilya (my coworker) who showed me around this amazing indoor/outdoor market that is nothing that I have ever seen. It is a totally happening place, vendors and buyers flock about, wooden carts transporting goods and so many goods! I was definitely overwhelmed and had to be dragged by Dilya otherwise I would’ve just stood there and watched the whole market take action. It is many, many times larger than the Richmond public market/St. Lawrence market and as crazy/dirty as Mongkok in Hong Kong. I was still in awe my second time there as I discovered rows of spices, fruits and all the nuts you can imagine. I even found Nutella for 8 sonomi!
On Thursday, I tagged along with some colleagues and drove out to
Istaravshan, a historic town (formerly called Uro Teppa) about 78km away from Khujand that is 1000m above sea level and over 2500 years old. We visited another NGOs’ project areas and met with several homes of individual women farmers who had received grants from the NGO to build hothouses. Our purpose was to see if these women would be interested in applying for the grant offered by MEDA and also for my colleagues to assess their suitability for our grant. It turns out that a few of the hothouses were constructed incorrectly and the feeling was that the grant funding was used elsewhere and not on the hothouses themselves. In the microfinance field, you hear of misuses of funds due to a variety of reasons and to witness it firsthand demonstrates a need to pick the right recipients for the funds and have monitoring systems in place to ensure it is used effectively. I look forward to seeing what systems MEDA has in place to ensure the funds are used with most impact.
On a side note: Congrats to Bonnie and Aaron, another pair who recently got engaged! Perhaps it’s that special age that we’re at but there’s been a ton of engagements, weddings in the past two years. I started reading a book by Ravi Zacharias and wanted to dedicate this to all couples choosing to be united in marriage:
I have been to Khujand’s main market, Panchshanbe Bazaar a few times this week. Luckily, my first experience was with Dilya (my coworker) who showed me around this amazing indoor/outdoor market that is nothing that I have ever seen. It is a totally happening place, vendors and buyers flock about, wooden carts transporting goods and so many goods! I was definitely overwhelmed and had to be dragged by Dilya otherwise I would’ve just stood there and watched the whole market take action. It is many, many times larger than the Richmond public market/St. Lawrence market and as crazy/dirty as Mongkok in Hong Kong. I was still in awe my second time there as I discovered rows of spices, fruits and all the nuts you can imagine. I even found Nutella for 8 sonomi!
On Thursday, I tagged along with some colleagues and drove out to
Istaravshan, a historic town (formerly called Uro Teppa) about 78km away from Khujand that is 1000m above sea level and over 2500 years old. We visited another NGOs’ project areas and met with several homes of individual women farmers who had received grants from the NGO to build hothouses. Our purpose was to see if these women would be interested in applying for the grant offered by MEDA and also for my colleagues to assess their suitability for our grant. It turns out that a few of the hothouses were constructed incorrectly and the feeling was that the grant funding was used elsewhere and not on the hothouses themselves. In the microfinance field, you hear of misuses of funds due to a variety of reasons and to witness it firsthand demonstrates a need to pick the right recipients for the funds and have monitoring systems in place to ensure it is used effectively. I look forward to seeing what systems MEDA has in place to ensure the funds are used with most impact.On a side note: Congrats to Bonnie and Aaron, another pair who recently got engaged! Perhaps it’s that special age that we’re at but there’s been a ton of engagements, weddings in the past two years. I started reading a book by Ravi Zacharias and wanted to dedicate this to all couples choosing to be united in marriage:
“Marriage is an extraordinary relationship.
It is a commitment from which you dare not take a vacation.
It demands nurture and care, and like a tender shoot,
the better the care, the better the blossom.
But to be sure, it is hard work.”
Tuesday, September 12, 2006
Another update!
Saturday September 9 was Tajikistan’s national holiday: Independence Day. They are celebrating the 15th year since independence from Soviet rule. Tajiks are very proud of this day and I was told that they have spent days preparing for this occasion. How do they celebrate you ask…Well they hold a demonstration (parade) where students, government workers and others join together and march along the river, tons of food and fireworks at night. Tajik flags and the nation’s colors were displayed throughout the town. Women wore their traditional Tajik dress called curta (nightgown-like dress) with a certain color pattern. It is a total family affair and I was living right in the middle of all the excitement! I took a walk out to check out the action and there was havoc on the streets. Cars parked wherever they could, smell of smoke bellowing out from the skewered meats (shashlik) on the BBQs and people everywhere! It was a bit overwhelming for me as I was walking on my own and couldn’t really communicate with others.
An update on my backpack…it has finally arrived into Tashkent but unfortunately it’s still not in my hands =( After a lot of organization by Rano (my savior at MEDA), it will be in my hands by the end of the day (I hope!) I also moved into a new apartment on Monday. My place is located on the main street and walking distance to the main bazaar (market) so I can do my grocery shopping. I was also told that because the apartment is located right next to the government department of energy that I will not have to worry about blackouts during winter time. Electricity power is split up into various lines and the “red line” which is for hospitals and government buildings and will always receive power.
Now all I need to do is learn Russian in a flash so I can communicate with others more efficiently. I have to admit that it takes a lot of energy and hand gesturing to get very simple concepts across and this is very tiresome. However, I have to remember that I have just been here for a week so it will take time before I can communicate at a comfortable level. I’ve picked up a handful of Russian and Tajik words already but I think I will concentrate on learning Russian as it will be more useful for me in the future.
Photos to come I promise!
Khayr! (bye!)
An update on my backpack…it has finally arrived into Tashkent but unfortunately it’s still not in my hands =( After a lot of organization by Rano (my savior at MEDA), it will be in my hands by the end of the day (I hope!) I also moved into a new apartment on Monday. My place is located on the main street and walking distance to the main bazaar (market) so I can do my grocery shopping. I was also told that because the apartment is located right next to the government department of energy that I will not have to worry about blackouts during winter time. Electricity power is split up into various lines and the “red line” which is for hospitals and government buildings and will always receive power.
Now all I need to do is learn Russian in a flash so I can communicate with others more efficiently. I have to admit that it takes a lot of energy and hand gesturing to get very simple concepts across and this is very tiresome. However, I have to remember that I have just been here for a week so it will take time before I can communicate at a comfortable level. I’ve picked up a handful of Russian and Tajik words already but I think I will concentrate on learning Russian as it will be more useful for me in the future.
Photos to come I promise!
Khayr! (bye!)
Tuesday, September 05, 2006
Wided-Eyed...
It’s 3:00 am on Wednesday, September 6 and I am wide awake. The jet lag has been frustrating and nothing I’ve ever experienced before. For the last two nights, I’ve fallen asleep at 9 pm and then wake up only having 4-5 hours of sleep. I’m wide awake but I know this is not normal. I will try to take some gravol before I sleep tonight.
Yesterday was another ‘not to be forgotten’ day of my only few days in Khujand. I had to register with the Tajik government and was told I needed a certificate to prove I didn’t have HIV/AIDS. Oh no!! I knew about this requirement but after consulting with MEDA staff who said I didn’t need it and not having enough time, I actually didn’t get this done in Canada. So this required a trip to the only certified laboratory in Khujand. The lab was set up by UNDP and the health standards were definitely low compared to labs in Canada. It was here where I met my first Tajik woman with a unibrow. I will never forget the nurse who took my blood sample with the unibrow!
I’ve met many of the staff here in MEDA Tajikistan. They are friendly; hardworking bunches who are always laughing and chattering away using in a mix of Tajik/Russian/English. The office is situated in a huge house with very high ceilings and beautifully-decorated Tajik style. 2-3 staff share a room and what’s amazing is there are wires everywhere to connect each room to the router that’s located on the bottom floor!
It turns out that Khujand is a lot bigger city than what I originally thought. The area where I live is considered pretty central but the oldest part of the city. There are many other areas with newer apartments and shopping districts plus residential areas that I have yet to discover. Can you believe they seven universities here? No wonder the Tajik education level is over 95%! What also is very interesting is there is not a single map of Khujand (except what I have from my lonely planet guidebook) Streets are not named and I can’t figure out how people know where to get places. It is definitely not tourist-friendly. Tajiks also drive and park anywhere they can and want! There are no parking meters that exists here!
I am also pretty sure that every other car that I’ve seen on the roads in Khujand is either Mercedes, BMWs or Daewoos. I was told that it is cheap to import them from Germany and Korea due to close relations with these countries and that they are mostly secondhand vehicles. However I have also heard that the underground drug trade in Tajikistan has fuelled this phenomenon.
Prayer Request:
For my sleeping patterns to regulate and for me to sleep throughout the night. Continued strength and positive attitude towards dealing with a new and difficult living environment. Staying healthy as I do not wish to visit any health institutions in Tajikistan.
Ok I will try to head back to bed since I really can’t survive on just 4 hours of sleep!!
Shab Bakhayr (good night in Tajik)
Yesterday was another ‘not to be forgotten’ day of my only few days in Khujand. I had to register with the Tajik government and was told I needed a certificate to prove I didn’t have HIV/AIDS. Oh no!! I knew about this requirement but after consulting with MEDA staff who said I didn’t need it and not having enough time, I actually didn’t get this done in Canada. So this required a trip to the only certified laboratory in Khujand. The lab was set up by UNDP and the health standards were definitely low compared to labs in Canada. It was here where I met my first Tajik woman with a unibrow. I will never forget the nurse who took my blood sample with the unibrow!
I’ve met many of the staff here in MEDA Tajikistan. They are friendly; hardworking bunches who are always laughing and chattering away using in a mix of Tajik/Russian/English. The office is situated in a huge house with very high ceilings and beautifully-decorated Tajik style. 2-3 staff share a room and what’s amazing is there are wires everywhere to connect each room to the router that’s located on the bottom floor!
It turns out that Khujand is a lot bigger city than what I originally thought. The area where I live is considered pretty central but the oldest part of the city. There are many other areas with newer apartments and shopping districts plus residential areas that I have yet to discover. Can you believe they seven universities here? No wonder the Tajik education level is over 95%! What also is very interesting is there is not a single map of Khujand (except what I have from my lonely planet guidebook) Streets are not named and I can’t figure out how people know where to get places. It is definitely not tourist-friendly. Tajiks also drive and park anywhere they can and want! There are no parking meters that exists here!
I am also pretty sure that every other car that I’ve seen on the roads in Khujand is either Mercedes, BMWs or Daewoos. I was told that it is cheap to import them from Germany and Korea due to close relations with these countries and that they are mostly secondhand vehicles. However I have also heard that the underground drug trade in Tajikistan has fuelled this phenomenon.
Prayer Request:
For my sleeping patterns to regulate and for me to sleep throughout the night. Continued strength and positive attitude towards dealing with a new and difficult living environment. Staying healthy as I do not wish to visit any health institutions in Tajikistan.
Ok I will try to head back to bed since I really can’t survive on just 4 hours of sleep!!
Shab Bakhayr (good night in Tajik)
Assalom from Khujand!
After 4 airports, 4 airplane meals, over 4000 km distanced traveled and over 17 hours of time traveled, I finally landed safely into Tashkent, Uzbekistan at 4:00am on Sunday morning. All in all my travels so far was smooth and non-stressful (thank you for all your prayers!).
Well you figure it couldn’t be all that smooth right? Well, it turns out that BA failed to send a cargo-load of luggage to Tashkent because everyone on my flight was missing at least one item!! It was a bit chaotic as the BA agents gave out missing luggage forms for us to fill out. We were told that it should arrive by Wednesday (when the next flight arrives) and than I could call to find out if my backpack was there or not. Thank God I got one suitcase and that I packed toiletries in both bags. By the time I sorted this all out and met up with Rustam (driver from MEDA) outside the airport, daylight began to appear and there were tons of people mulling about the airport at such early hours.
I was still 3 hours away by car from Khujand, Tajikistan. The drive out of Uzbekistan consisted of many cotton fields and many random men and women sitting or standing alongside the dusty roads we drove on. Every town has a checkpoint with guards dressed in army green outfits. I was a bit nervous about this part of the trip but Rustam took care of talking to them and I just kept quiet. We finally got to the border crossing and this consisted of us going through many gates and stopping the car each time to show our passports for them to record. The setup of these border crossings is very simple: One small room, one or two old computers to work from, a record book and a few border guards in green. It was stark and cold-looking but the guards we met were fairly nice. After they found out that I was from Canada, they pretended to slap a hockey stick and said “hockey” haha It’s nice to know that Canadians are known for their hockey even in the smallest and remote parts of the world.
The fun really began once in Tajikistan. I noticed in a far away distance a range of mountains coming up. We are definitely in Tajikistan which is 75% mountainous. The landscape is what I kind of imagined it to be; barren mountainous, very dry and dusty with oasis towns existing in valleys and at the foot of the mountains (like Kamloops or Chilliwack). I’m sure you have all seen clips of Afghanistan on TV lately. Well, the landscape of Tajikistan is quite similar to that. (sorry no photos yet as I was too tired to get my camera)
Rustam told me that the roads in Tajikistan are very bad so I thought the huge potholes and uneven road surfaces were the extent of it but I was wrong. It turned out that right after this stretch of road was the beginning of a gravel roadway that went on for what seemed like miles. It was very bumpy and I definitely would not be able to drive through this type of terrain. Rustam also told me that China is in the process of rebuilding the road that connects Tashkent to Khujand, from Khujand to Dushanbe and from there onwards to China. So as we drove pass road construction machinery, I noticed that they were all from China! Improving the roadways will definitely make it easier to do any type of business in the future.
I will most likely be staying at the MEDA guesthouse which is quite spacious but it will take some time getting used to. The toilet is in its own tiny room, separate from th
e bathtub which is in another room. The water in Khujand is poor due to the poor infrastructure so it smells like rust and tastes bad. I will stick to bottled water and will just have to deal with the smell of rust with some good smelling shampoo and soap =) My very first visitor was a long-legged spider in the tiny bathroom which I just had to sum up my courage to get rid of without squealing like I normally do (I also noticed a bunch of mini ants and a cockroach on my first day!!).
Language will also be a huge challenge for me as all I have only been able to say “Hi” and “Thank you” but everything else is with hand gestures and words like “internet?” I will be picked up by a driver to the MEDA office as it is a bit far to walk to. My first taste of the food was not appeasing at all. I ordered Borcsh and Kebab which both turned out to have meatball-like meat in it and it was a bit bland with a certain spice that I’m not used to eating. I lost a bit of my appetite but didn’t want to be rude so ate about half of it. I figure I’m just not used to the type of food here yet. I wish I had more of this type of food prior to leaving Canada to try to accustom to it.
My first impressions after arriving:
How much it reminded me of cities I visited in China. The smell of smoke, the burning of something which I can’t quite figure out yet and the odd bad smell of waste/garbage.
It was a similar remembrance but also different in many ways. Some women dress in bright and colorful long dresses (looks a bit like a nightgown) while others wear more modern attire. Some men wear a traditional tupi (squared hat). The infrastructure of roads and buildings are in poor condition and it is definitely in worse shape than many of the cities I traveled to in China.
There are so many women and children in Khujand! Everywhere I looked, I saw women sitting outside their little food stalls and children screaming and playing. I walked around the city center in Khujand and it was a weird feeling. I felt the glances and stares of people at me as I walked by. I’m not sure whether to look people in the eye or not. I’m sure I will figure this all out as this is just my first day here in Tajikistan.
I can’t believe I’m finally here. It will be a change in luxuries and the western culture that I am used to but I am open and willing to enjoy this part of the world for the next 6 months.
Well you figure it couldn’t be all that smooth right? Well, it turns out that BA failed to send a cargo-load of luggage to Tashkent because everyone on my flight was missing at least one item!! It was a bit chaotic as the BA agents gave out missing luggage forms for us to fill out. We were told that it should arrive by Wednesday (when the next flight arrives) and than I could call to find out if my backpack was there or not. Thank God I got one suitcase and that I packed toiletries in both bags. By the time I sorted this all out and met up with Rustam (driver from MEDA) outside the airport, daylight began to appear and there were tons of people mulling about the airport at such early hours.
I was still 3 hours away by car from Khujand, Tajikistan. The drive out of Uzbekistan consisted of many cotton fields and many random men and women sitting or standing alongside the dusty roads we drove on. Every town has a checkpoint with guards dressed in army green outfits. I was a bit nervous about this part of the trip but Rustam took care of talking to them and I just kept quiet. We finally got to the border crossing and this consisted of us going through many gates and stopping the car each time to show our passports for them to record. The setup of these border crossings is very simple: One small room, one or two old computers to work from, a record book and a few border guards in green. It was stark and cold-looking but the guards we met were fairly nice. After they found out that I was from Canada, they pretended to slap a hockey stick and said “hockey” haha It’s nice to know that Canadians are known for their hockey even in the smallest and remote parts of the world.
The fun really began once in Tajikistan. I noticed in a far away distance a range of mountains coming up. We are definitely in Tajikistan which is 75% mountainous. The landscape is what I kind of imagined it to be; barren mountainous, very dry and dusty with oasis towns existing in valleys and at the foot of the mountains (like Kamloops or Chilliwack). I’m sure you have all seen clips of Afghanistan on TV lately. Well, the landscape of Tajikistan is quite similar to that. (sorry no photos yet as I was too tired to get my camera)
Rustam told me that the roads in Tajikistan are very bad so I thought the huge potholes and uneven road surfaces were the extent of it but I was wrong. It turned out that right after this stretch of road was the beginning of a gravel roadway that went on for what seemed like miles. It was very bumpy and I definitely would not be able to drive through this type of terrain. Rustam also told me that China is in the process of rebuilding the road that connects Tashkent to Khujand, from Khujand to Dushanbe and from there onwards to China. So as we drove pass road construction machinery, I noticed that they were all from China! Improving the roadways will definitely make it easier to do any type of business in the future.
I will most likely be staying at the MEDA guesthouse which is quite spacious but it will take some time getting used to. The toilet is in its own tiny room, separate from th
e bathtub which is in another room. The water in Khujand is poor due to the poor infrastructure so it smells like rust and tastes bad. I will stick to bottled water and will just have to deal with the smell of rust with some good smelling shampoo and soap =) My very first visitor was a long-legged spider in the tiny bathroom which I just had to sum up my courage to get rid of without squealing like I normally do (I also noticed a bunch of mini ants and a cockroach on my first day!!).Language will also be a huge challenge for me as all I have only been able to say “Hi” and “Thank you” but everything else is with hand gestures and words like “internet?” I will be picked up by a driver to the MEDA office as it is a bit far to walk to. My first taste of the food was not appeasing at all. I ordered Borcsh and Kebab which both turned out to have meatball-like meat in it and it was a bit bland with a certain spice that I’m not used to eating. I lost a bit of my appetite but didn’t want to be rude so ate about half of it. I figure I’m just not used to the type of food here yet. I wish I had more of this type of food prior to leaving Canada to try to accustom to it.
My first impressions after arriving:
How much it reminded me of cities I visited in China. The smell of smoke, the burning of something which I can’t quite figure out yet and the odd bad smell of waste/garbage.
It was a similar remembrance but also different in many ways. Some women dress in bright and colorful long dresses (looks a bit like a nightgown) while others wear more modern attire. Some men wear a traditional tupi (squared hat). The infrastructure of roads and buildings are in poor condition and it is definitely in worse shape than many of the cities I traveled to in China.
There are so many women and children in Khujand! Everywhere I looked, I saw women sitting outside their little food stalls and children screaming and playing. I walked around the city center in Khujand and it was a weird feeling. I felt the glances and stares of people at me as I walked by. I’m not sure whether to look people in the eye or not. I’m sure I will figure this all out as this is just my first day here in Tajikistan.
I can’t believe I’m finally here. It will be a change in luxuries and the western culture that I am used to but I am open and willing to enjoy this part of the world for the next 6 months.
Sunday, September 03, 2006
She made it!
Hey everybody,
Just wanted to let you know that Rachel has arrived in Khujand, Tajikistan! Thank you everybody for your prayers and support for a safe journey.
It's been an interesting week in Vancouver since she left Tajikistan. Work has been super busy as code freeze has been set for next Tuesday and I still got a bunch of things to do. I also decided that it was time that I got back in shape. So when Marian mentioned it was bring your friend day to Survivor Bootcamp I thought I'd try it out. There was another bring your friend day that I missed the week before. Mike went to this and after it he couldn't move his arms.... So I knew it was going to be tough. And oh boy it was. It's been 2 days and I'm still feeling the effects of it. The next session starts on Sept 11th and lasts a month which I'm hoping to join. I think it'll get me into a good exercise routine. Tomorrow's another busy day, going to PNE which I haven't been to for a few years, and a one month baby dinner in the evening. Now that I'm mentioning babies... Congrats to Suzanne and Andrew on their new baby Girl! Kristen Chan was born at 5:25pm Saturday September 2nd. Coming in at 6lbs 14ounces. Both mom and baby are doing well.
Just wanted to let you know that Rachel has arrived in Khujand, Tajikistan! Thank you everybody for your prayers and support for a safe journey.
It's been an interesting week in Vancouver since she left Tajikistan. Work has been super busy as code freeze has been set for next Tuesday and I still got a bunch of things to do. I also decided that it was time that I got back in shape. So when Marian mentioned it was bring your friend day to Survivor Bootcamp I thought I'd try it out. There was another bring your friend day that I missed the week before. Mike went to this and after it he couldn't move his arms.... So I knew it was going to be tough. And oh boy it was. It's been 2 days and I'm still feeling the effects of it. The next session starts on Sept 11th and lasts a month which I'm hoping to join. I think it'll get me into a good exercise routine. Tomorrow's another busy day, going to PNE which I haven't been to for a few years, and a one month baby dinner in the evening. Now that I'm mentioning babies... Congrats to Suzanne and Andrew on their new baby Girl! Kristen Chan was born at 5:25pm Saturday September 2nd. Coming in at 6lbs 14ounces. Both mom and baby are doing well.
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